Dory Beach

Thursday, March 14, 2013

_+ Happy Holidays +_

The Most Important Holiday of the Year...

Steak & BJ Day

Wednesday, March 13, 2013

#2. Yesterday,greated w/ a mucho high tide mushing out what little swell there was on tap to begin w/, and then having it flee the area post work-day, Dorybeach was met w/ a decision. Grind it out, and just go sit in the water just because, go for some training to better yourself for the next day, or just enjoy your tuesday for what it is. Enjoy the moment, give your mind and body a rest some time. Take a Taco Tuesday siesta. And so we did. Too many Pacifico's and carnita taco's later

we came to mumble w/ sleepy eyes that "I'm stoked that summer and daylight savings time is here. More daylight." Sometimes irresponsibilty reveals underlying thoughts. its simple, give your self a break sometimes, so that when your in, your all in.

Some irresponsible surfing from Nick Rosza...

and some irresponsible parenting just for your amusement...

be all in

+dorybeach-

_+ Photo of the Year +_

++ Because THIS Is AMERICA ++

++ KE12Y ++

Monday, March 11, 2013

Rainy +Drainy

in an effort to explore the almost overwhelming landscape and experiences of a place like California in a Dorybeach unique perspective, there will be a daily thought update to help relay the thoughts and experiences of the every day. Hopefully you enjoy, hopefully it lasts -DB

#1 : in a new place...one finds himself in a new world to. So much ground to cover,so many checklists to check off,so much to do...RUN RUN RUN!. Febuary was that way. Up the coast, down the coast, hitting the go to spots and the long drive for a short window kind of month just to say that you did. Satisfaction ensued, scoring was frequent. With the coming off March, there was a bit of a lull coming into it,and the break allowed for a bit of a transition. Stay-cations can be as satisfying as vacations. With being on the run and the GO GO GO mentality sometimes one can miss the opportunites right underneath your nose. There is beauty to be held right at home, and learning your own backyard is just as important as taking in the whole world. The different tides, the different directions, the different weather, the sun and the winds. Almost everyday i speak with someone that had a killer session that I had driven right past, or a restaraunt that I had never dove into. Be expansive at times,and intensive at times. Know your neighborhood, but be sure to know your own backyard. The on switch is still "on", the intensity is "intense", but the focus has temporarily switched from outward to inward. There is a beautiful world right in front of your eyes, and dont forget to gaze into the distance, but sometimes you need to pull back and focus on the here and now. For here and now. -3/11/13

+dorybeach-

Monday, March 4, 2013

Photo Array Monday

Marley squinting

Symmetry

(from SurferMag's Social Absorption)

Jillian, apparently used to live in NJ somewhere and now lives in OCMD becuase of Sandy

will someone please find her?!

2 scary looking rides

this week is going to be weird, wild, and wet

Happy Monday

+dorybeach

Friday, March 1, 2013

Opening Day

w/ the first real south swell of the season

(in Feb??!!!!)

it was opening day at Lowers yesterday

no wind-offshore-no wind again

it was a three session day spanning

all crowds, all tides, and a ton of waves

sure the crowd was rough as always

but it was worth it

we were going to make a complicated ornate post comparing opening days to this one

but guess what...

walking in...you could see it. we ran the trail

we're surfed out

sunburned as shit

noodle-armed and weak knee'd after yet another

dawn patrol session this am

holy shit

welcome back

winter...you've been great

but its time to get on movin on

what little comedic relief we CAN offer

wowwwwww

+dorybeach-

Wednesday, February 27, 2013

Unexpected Locals

Here's a little feel good story

It all starts out with a long session two days ago.

Surfed until dark, waves super fun, successful.

Suit hung up to dry for another late session the following day.

(enter rain)

The next day before work, feeling the damp cold suit

the goofy bright lesser used for obvious reasons suit is pulled out and thrown with the other materials

(enter wind+shitty looking waves)

Getting out of work for a dusk session

The best option was to try a little local state beach where dorybeach has remained skunked until this point

Choosing to paddle out anyway, the goofy suit goes on despite wise thinking and the walk to the tight knit take off spot begins

Walking to the take off point, a rivermouth has to be crossed.

Thinking its shallow in a spot, I hop step across it to get to the other side

its not shallow

Its disgusting. Foamy, trashy, who knows.

Everybody see's it

Awesome

Getting into the line-up

A few eyeballs are crossed, obviously wondering who the new guy is

and why the hell he would paddle out here right now

Taking a relatively fun left all the way to the beach, and paddling back out now

I take the high road and hoot in an older gentleman into a good looking left

Good karma right? Stoked for your comrade and all that right?

He sprays me, and hightails it down the line, crushing the end section.

Good for him.

Paddling right next to me, the following exchange takes place...

Stanger: "Hey, hey bud, you from around here?" (shit)

Me: "uhhh yea...dont surf here too often but looked the best option...nice wave"

Stranger: (btw at least 250 and bald and rather intimidating a figure" Yea. I've never seen you before? where you live"

Me: "Oh, up @ _______ St. , and i work at the shop down the street"

Stranger: "Ohhhh...nice..I dont really ever go in there"(really shit)

Me:"Well you probably wouldnt recognize me anyway, I'm pretty new,this is a fun wave thoughI'm Danny nice to meet ya!"

Stranger: "Oh no way...you helped my buddy get his stuff for our boat trip we leave for tomorrow. His boards look sick he told me all about you. I'm Chris. This is my spot, glad to see you made it down here, the glass off is going to be beautiful!"

Here, this my friend Frank, and John, we surf here all the time "hey guys, this is Danny, he works @ the shop down the street." This is our spot, we love it, so fun. Your welcome anytime.

Me: "Well thanks man, can't say I was expecting that"

The session glassed off. The wind stop. The tide dropped. I got hooted in my John and Frank and Chris

Sometimes in that moment of doubt

Something amazing happens

and you get exactly what you didn't expect

+dorybeach-