Here's a little feel good story
It all starts out with a long session two days ago.
Surfed until dark, waves super fun, successful.
Suit hung up to dry for another late session the following day.
(enter rain)
The next day before work, feeling the damp cold suit
the goofy bright lesser used for obvious reasons suit is pulled out and thrown with the other materials
(enter wind+shitty looking waves)
Getting out of work for a dusk session
The best option was to try a little local state beach where dorybeach has remained skunked until this point
Choosing to paddle out anyway, the goofy suit goes on despite wise thinking and the walk to the tight knit take off spot begins
Walking to the take off point, a rivermouth has to be crossed.
Thinking its shallow in a spot, I hop step across it to get to the other side
its not shallow
Its disgusting. Foamy, trashy, who knows.
Everybody see's it
Awesome
Getting into the line-up
A few eyeballs are crossed, obviously wondering who the new guy is
and why the hell he would paddle out here right now
Taking a relatively fun left all the way to the beach, and paddling back out now
I take the high road and hoot in an older gentleman into a good looking left
Good karma right? Stoked for your comrade and all that right?
He sprays me, and hightails it down the line, crushing the end section.
Good for him.
Paddling right next to me, the following exchange takes place...
Stanger: "Hey, hey bud, you from around here?" (shit)
Me: "uhhh yea...dont surf here too often but looked the best option...nice wave"
Stranger: (btw at least 250 and bald and rather intimidating a figure" Yea. I've never seen you before? where you live"
Me: "Oh, up @ _______ St. , and i work at the shop down the street"
Stranger: "Ohhhh...nice..I dont really ever go in there"(really shit)
Me:"Well you probably wouldnt recognize me anyway, I'm pretty new,this is a fun wave thoughI'm Danny nice to meet ya!"
Stranger: "Oh no way...you helped my buddy get his stuff for our boat trip we leave for tomorrow. His boards look sick he told me all about you. I'm Chris. This is my spot, glad to see you made it down here, the glass off is going to be beautiful!"
Here, this my friend Frank, and John, we surf here all the time "hey guys, this is Danny, he works @ the shop down the street." This is our spot, we love it, so fun. Your welcome anytime.
Me: "Well thanks man, can't say I was expecting that"
The session glassed off. The wind stop. The tide dropped. I got hooted in my John and Frank and Chris
Sometimes in that moment of doubt
Something amazing happens
and you get exactly what you didn't expect
+dorybeach-
