Having a bit of anxiety about the place
just the cliffs, the being alone, the long hike, the power of the wave
we decided the only way to get over that was to head directly into the lions den.
4-6+ Glassy Mid-Dropping Tide (Fast)
Set's 8+
Hammering
Seeing the size, I was wondering if it was smart to do it alone
Dorybeach buddy Drew happens to text me
"Go Fucking Do it" it read
Sitting watching it for 20 minutes,
the time was now.
Still not ready for this trail yet,
not even sure this guy was?
Main peak
Never before, but soon again
the power there is just so raw
so unbriddled
its like nothing else to feel under your feet
It wasn't HUGE by anymeans
but overcoming some anxieties and being excited instead of nervous is a reality
Didn't get a session you'll see in the magazines
but i got exactly what i wanted
I'm ready for more
+two full on (no cover-ups this time) short right barrels
-and complete committment followed by annihalation after pulling under the lip
and into the belly of the beast on a left
with no speed left at all
haha
5 Counties
4 Lifechanging Sessions
2Days
+dorybeach-
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