w/ the first real south swell of the season
(in Feb??!!!!)
it was opening day at Lowers yesterday
no wind-offshore-no wind again
it was a three session day spanning
all crowds, all tides, and a ton of waves
sure the crowd was rough as always
but it was worth it
we were going to make a complicated ornate post comparing opening days to this one
but guess what...
walking in...you could see it. we ran the trail
we're surfed out
sunburned as shit
noodle-armed and weak knee'd after yet another
dawn patrol session this am
holy shit
welcome back
winter...you've been great
but its time to get on movin on
what little comedic relief we CAN offer
wowwwwww
+dorybeach-
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