 |
| this gentlemen is going to find what he was looking for...whether that is a god thing or not is in question. Unknown intensely feeling the feelings to be discussed |
Be warned. This is a write up on
feelings. And surfing. Its one of those surfing-feelings articles.
We are constantly searching as wave
sliders. For the best waves, winds, boards, top and bottom contours (geographic
and otherwise) the list goes on and on of “things we are hunting down”. But
sometimes they just stumble right to (and over) you.
There is that moment. And I am
convinced that it is single handedly the finest in our aquatic existence. Not
the majestic sunrise, the view from a barrel (always open to disagree-ance), or
the site of the set arriving as you crest the dune or look over your bluff.
In fact, it’s getting caught
inside. Or more specifically ALMOST getting caught inside.
You are out on the point or peak
with a few and somehow with waves passed or laziness or time restraints you
find yourself with a bit of separation from the masses. If one comes to you,
its just you out there.
Thinking you are in position, a
wave arises far into the distances with clear intentions of burying you in its
path; zero possibility of harnessing this bundle of hell on liquid wheels, just
to get past it. Your heart races, the fact that this beautiful wave steaming
towards you is on another scale than all the rest you’ve crossed paths with
that day has your adrenaline flowing wondering what’s behind it. But first is
first.
You scratch for the horizon,
realizing you are FAR from where you need to be if there is even the remote
possibility of more like this. It is somewhat like a race where the finish line
is racing towards you instead of you towards it, and its getting close,
FAST! Lipping right ahead of you,
you throw yourself to the depths as far as our noodle arms can push us and hope
for the best.
Here is the height of excitement.
Underwater, navigating the plooms of whitewater and bubbles, we somehow ignore
our usual instinct to stay deep and to wait it out. We need to get back to the
surface. NOW! Eyes wide, we almost scan the horizon for what could be coming
THROUGH the water. Anticipation. Everything is possible at this moment. You
emerge, that beautiful instant where your eyes clear the water line and for a
split second there is no division between sea and sky. Your arms burning and
heart racing, body tense with the anxiety of action. Will the second be better
than the first? Bigger? Worse? Am I going to have to race outside again to
avoid becoming another grain in the sand? Your paddling before your entire body
has surfaced, pulling, not sure where yet, but on the ready….
One wave set. Now you’re out the back all alone. Far from
sandbars and sanity both.
Now comes another feeling….
contours and shape and timing are important,
and these fine ladies are our wish for your that
all your good things today, waves or otherwise,
come in pairs :)
+Dorybeach-
No comments:
Post a Comment